Listvyanka
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Listvyanka by the Lake
Listvyanka is a little lakeside village that was on our list of places to see so the next day, with much milder weather, we decided to head there on the bus. We walked to the bus station from the hostel and it probably took us no more than 20 minutes. When you reach the bus station look to the left and enter the building on the edge of the property. Go into the first room on the right and you buy your tickets there. You can't buy the tickets from the bus driver.
The bus to Listvyanka
The bus was very grubby and looked like it hadn't been cleaned since it was first put into service. There were empty juice bottles and empty food packages tucked into the backs of the seats. Strangely though, there were beautiful decorative curtains around the tops of the windows. It was contradictory to see such lovely delicate curtains in such a dirty old bus. When the interior of the bus is neglected you then start wondering if the safety of the bus is up to scratch or not.
Dirty bus to Listvyanka
The shores of Lake Baikal at Listvyanka
Listvyanka was a disappointment to us. There was no little village charm. It's been over commercialized with multi-story buildings that don't suit the rest of the village and in our opinion it is over rated. We arrived at 11 a.m. and then discovered there were no buses back until 3 pm so we were there for four hours.
First of all we looked at the little stalls that were being set up. There were lots of them on the waterfront and each was selling similar touristy items that related to the lake and the Listvyanka area.
We walked right to the far end of the village, photographing everything, as usual. We were puzzled by the lovely building we found that had been abandoned before completion. We wondered if it was once going to be a hotel or perhaps up-market units. The style of the building was very smart.
Jean walking to far end of village
Did the money run out before it was finished?
Market at Listvyanka
We had heard a lot about the traditional fish of the area called Omul so we wanted to try it. Ian quite liked it but it didn't do a lot for me. But then I have a thing about eating fish with bones in it. The flavour is quite nice though.
Listvyanka specialty of smoked Omul
Here the ladies are selling Omul in the market
It was satisfying to finally be close enough to dip our hands in the deepest, oldest and biggest fresh water lake in the world. It holds one-fifth of the world's fresh water so that is very special.
Scenery and houses at Lake Baikal
Modern hotel at Listvyanka
The scenery and the old wooden village houses are wonderful to look at but these big, garish and new monstrosities spoil the village atmosphere.
Ian enjoyed the curved shed roof and the rusty old boat seen in the photos below:
Old building with interesting roof shape
Rusty old boat
We were quite hungry and looked for somewhere to eat. We finally settled on a place that advertised it had a menu in English and in German.
Inside we found we were the only diners. There were two waitresses who were most unenthusiastic about their role in the restaurant. They were totally disinterested in us and could barely be bothered looking for the English menu. They did eventually find it.
We ordered our meals and waited and waited and waited ...... We were starting to get a bit cross when eventually the meals arrived. Salad was supposed to go with my meal but you can see what the salad amounted to in the photo. My meal was exceedingly greasy too. We don't remember the name of the restaurant but it had a spiral staircase in the middle of the room.
Greasy meal with salad (what salad?)
This stacked firewood served as a beautiful wall
We were amazed at the skill of the person who built this cottage wall from large pieces of fire wood. The wall was perfectly flat on the front side. Whoever built it was a very skilled wood stacker indeed.
It was almost time to catch the bus back to Irkutsk. There were quite a few people waiting to get on the bus for the return trip so we were glad we had pre-purchased the return ticket when we first arrived. There was just enough time to grab an ice cream and demolish it before climbing on board.
Next page - Time to leave Lake Baikal
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Our trip in the order it happened:
- The Trans Siberian Trip
- Where it all began
- Gathering travel facts
- Early planning
- Kevin and Alla
- Couch Surfing is for us
- Learning Russian
- Tickets to Russia
- Accomm. in Russia
- Invitations to Russia
- Obtaining our visas
- Tickets via an agency
- Last minute worries
- Travellers cheques
- The journey begins
- South Korea to Russia
- Vladivostok at last
- Sightseeing in Vlad. Pt 1
- Sightseeing in Vlad. Pt 2
- The Rossiya leaves Vlad.
- On the Rossiya.
- Food on the Rossiya
- Forests of Siberia
- Last hours on Rossiya
- Arriving in Ulan Ude
- Wandering in Ulan Ude
- Ivolginsky Datsan
- The Old Believers.
- Ulan Ude to Irkutsk
- Admiral Hostel, Irkutsk
- Circum Baikal Railway
- Things to see in Irkutsk
- Listvyanka
- Leaving Lake Baikal
- Baikal train
- Perm
- Belaya Gora Monastery
- Perm-36, the Gulag
- Leaving Perm on the bus
- Kazan and the Kremlin
- Places to see in Kazan
- Historical buildings
- Mosques in Kazan
- Temple of all Religions
- Murom and Hotel Lada
- Sightseeing in Murom
- Tanya's insight
- Unpleasantness
- Unpleasantness cont. 2
- Unpleasantness cont. 3
- Vladimir Hotel
- Vladimir to Moscow
- Arriving in Moscow
- Kremlin, Moscow
- Red Square in Moscow
- Christ the Saviour area
- Tsaritsyno Park
- Kolomenskoye Park
- Sergiev Posad.
- Leaving Moscow
- Sapsan train journey
- Saint Petersburg Hostel
- Peterhof on the hydrofoil
- The bridges open
- The canal tour
- The Hermitage
- Nevsky Prospekt.
- The City Bus and Fortress
- Leaving Russia
- Flying in to Frankfurt
- YHA in Kaiserstrasse
- The Romer
- A cruise on the Main Riv.
- Arriving in Rudesheim
- Frankfurt to Australia